INTERPRETASI ZELLIGE BAHIA PALACE MELALUI TEKNIK ANYAMAN PADA BUSANA AVANT-GARDE
INTERPRETATION OF ZELLIGE BAHIA PALACE THROUGH WEAVING TECHNIQUES IN AVANT-GARDE FASHION
Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mendeskripsikan proses serta mengetahui hasil jadi penerapan teknik anyaman dengan sumber ide Zellige Bahia Palace pada busana avant-garde. Jenis penelitian yang digunakan adalah deskriptif kuantitatif dengan metode double diamond yang meliputi tahap discover, define, develop, dan deliver. Tahap discover, mencari dan mengumpulkan informasi mengenai bentuk Zellige Bahia Palace dan anyaman. Tahap define, merumuskan hasil eksplorasi ke dalam moodboard sebagai dasar konsep perancangan. Pada tahap develop, dirancang lima desain busana avant-garde yang menerapkan teknik anyaman sebagai elemen utama, kemudian dipilih satu desain terbaik oleh ahli untuk dikembangkan. Tahap ini juga mencakup eksplorasi bahan dan pembuatan prototype anyaman. Tahap deliver, dilakukan penilaian hasil produk kepada ahli fashion. Tempat penelitian dilakukan di Lab Tata Busana Fakultas Vokasi UNESA. Data penelitian dikumpulkan melalui lembar observasi yang dinilai oleh tiga ahli fashion dan dianalisis menggunakan nilai mean. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa penerapan unsur Zellige Bahia Palace dinilai sangat baik dengan mean 3.91, mengindikasikan unsur Zellige Bahia Palace berhasil diterjemahkan secara maksimal. Manipulating fabric anyaman dinilai sangat baik dengan mean 4.00, menunjukkan kualitas teknis anyaman yang dinilai sangat rapi, presisi, dan proporsional. Selain itu, hasil jadi busana avant-garde dengan mean 3.75, menunjukkan bahwa busana hasil jadi masih kurang mencerminkan tema avant-garde yang eksperimental. Secara keseluruhan, dapat disimpulkan bahwa hasil jadi teknik anyaman dengan sumber ide Zellige Bahia Palace pada busana avant-garde telah berhasil diwujudkan dengan kualitas yang sangat baik, meskipun masih terbuka peluang pengembangan untuk eksplorasi desain yang lebih inovatif dan eksperimental sesuai tema avant-garde.
Kata kunci: Busana avant-garde, Zellige Bahia Palace, Teknik anyaman
This study aims to describe the process and determine the final results of the application of the weaving technique with the idea source of Zellige Bahia Palace in avant-garde fashion. The type of research used is descriptive quantitative with the double diamond method which includes the stages of discover, define, develop, and deliver. The discover stage, searching and collecting information about the form of Zellige Bahia Palace and weaving. The define stage, formulating the exploration results into a moodboard as the basis for the design concept. In the develop stage, five avant-garde fashion designs were designed that apply the weaving technique as the main element, then the best design was selected by experts to be developed. This stage also includes material exploration and the creation of weaving prototypes. In the deliver stage, the product results were assessed by fashion experts. The research location was at the Fashion Design Lab, Faculty of Vocational Studies, UNESA. Research data were collected through observation sheets assessed by three fashion experts and analyzed using the mean value. The results showed that the application of the Zellige Bahia Palace elements was assessed very well with a mean of 3.91, indicating that the Zellige Bahia Palace elements were successfully translated optimally. Manipulating woven fabric was assessed as very good with a mean of 4.00, indicating the technical quality of the weaving which was assessed as very neat, precise, and proportional. In addition, the finished avant-garde clothing with a mean of 3.75, indicating that the finished clothing still did not reflect the experimental avant-garde theme. Overall, it can be concluded that the finished results of the weaving technique with the source of ideas from Zellige Bahia Palace on avant-garde clothing have been successfully realized with very good quality, although there are still opportunities for development for more innovative and experimental design explorations according to the avant-garde theme.
Keywords: Avant-garde fashion, Zellige Bahia Palace, Weaving technique