Penciptaan Busana Pesta dengan Inspirasi dari Omprog Busana Tari Gandrung
Evening wear Design Inspired by The Omprog Element of Gandrung Dance Costume
Penciptaan busana ini dilandasi oleh upaya pelestarian dan reaktualisasi budaya melalui desain busana pesta yang terinspirasi dari kostum tari Gandrung khas Banyuwangi, khususnya pada bagian omprog. Tujuan utama dari penciptaan ini meliputi: (1) Mendeskripsikan eksplorasi desain busana pesta dengan omprog tari Gandrung sebagai sumber inspirasi, (2) Mendeskripsikan proses perancangan busana pesta yang bersumber dari ide omprog tari Gandrung, (3) Mewujudkan busana pesta yang terinspirasi dari omprog tari Gandrung, dan (4) Mendeskripsikan penyajian karya dalam bentuk fashion show. Metode yang digunakan adalah practice-led research, yaitu pendekatan berbasis praktik yang bertujuan menghasilkan pemahaman baru dalam proses kreatif. Penciptaan ini melalui empat tahapan utama, yaitu eksplorasi, perancangan, perwujudan, dan penyajian karya. Hasil akhir penciptaan terdiri dari: (1) Tahap eksplorasi meliputi pencarian ide, bentuk, teknik, dan material dalam perancangan busana pesta bertema “Jagad Osing”. Inspirasi diperoleh dari ornamen omprog Gandrung yang ditransformasikan ke dalam desain modern dengan silluet I dan Y. Proses perancangan menggunakan teknik digital, drapping, bordir, serta beading. Pemilihan material seperti satin luxura, satin silk, tulle glitter, dan semi wool mendukung tampilan busana. (2) Tahap perancangan menghasilkan tiga desain utama yang terdiri dari dua busana wanita dan satu busana pria. Proses ini mencakup penyusunan desain alternatif, desain terpilih, dan technical drawing sebagai acuan produksi yang menggambarkan detail konstruksi, aksesori, serta busana secara akurat. (3) Tahap perwujudan meliputi realisasi desain melalui proses pengukuran, pembuatan pola, penjahitan, serta penerapan bordir dan beading hingga tahap finishing. (4) Tahap penyajian karya diwujudkan melalui pagelaran Jagad Osing 35th Annual Fashion Show sebagai bentuk apresiasi dan representasi budaya Osing Banyuwangi. Kegiatan ini meliputi tahap pra-event, on-event, dan pasca-event yang mencakup penilaian karya, peragaan busana, serta publikasi hasil penciptaan dalam bentuk jurnal. Promosi karya dilakukan melalui media publikasi, branding, label, kemasan, dan media sosial.
Kata Kunci: Busana Pesta, Tari Gandrung, Omprog Gandrung
The creation of this fashion design is based on efforts to preserve and recontextualize culture through evening wear inspired by the traditional Gandrung dance costume of Banyuwangi, particularly its omprog (headpiece). The main objectives of this creation are: (1) to describe the exploration of evening gown designs inspired by the omprog of the Gandrung dance, (2) to describe the design process of evening wear derived from the omprog concept, (3) to realize the evening wear inspired by the omprog of the Gandrung dance, and (4) to describe the presentation of the work through a fashion show. The method used is practice-led research, a practice-based approach aimed at generating new understanding through the creative process. This creation consists of four main stages: exploration, design, realization, and presentation. The final outcomes include: (1) The exploration stage, which involves idea development, form, technique, and material research for evening wear design under the theme “Jagad Osing.” Inspiration was drawn from omprog Gandrung ornaments, transformed into modern designs with I and Y silhouettes. The design process employs digital techniques, drapping, embroidery, and beading. Materials such as satin luxura, satin silk, glitter tulle, and semi wool were selected to support the elegant appearance of the garments. (2) The design stage produced three main designs consisting of two women’s outfits and one men’s outfit. This process included alternative designs, selected designs, and technical drawings as production references that illustrate construction details, accessories, and garments accurately. (3) The realization stage involved executing the designs through measurement, pattern making, sewing, embroidery, and beading applications up to the finishing stage. (4) The presentation stage was carried out through the Jagad Osing 35th Annual Fashion Show as a form of appreciation and representation of Osing Banyuwangi culture. This stage included pre-event, on-event, and post event activities such as work assessment, fashion performance, and publication of the results in a journal. Promotion of the work was conducted through various media, branding, labels, packaging, and social media.
Keywords: Evening Wear, Gandrung Dance, Omprog